Honda 1300 Coupe Forum
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 11 
 on: March 21, 2020, 07:18:00 PM 
Started by RichardH - Last post by RichardH
I'm hoping to reduce the heavy smoking of my recent coupe 7 acquisition by replacing the valve seals and caps so I can road test it. I've only removed the rocker cover for this as yet (below). It looks like a fair amount of carbon deposit on most surfaces. The smoke is very thick, pale grey and has a lot of unburnt fuel.

The shop manual's not really clear enough and there are no parts dimensions, however from some research, it looks as if the parts described as the seal and cap are similar to the Honda CB450 motorcycle.

The CB450 stems are apparently 7.0 mm. Has anyone had experience replacing the caps and seals? Do the CB450 parts fit? Any alternatives?
The CB 450 parts seem to be as follows (from CMS and a few other motorcycle suppliers):
Cap, valve guide: 14791-283-020 (The terminology is slighly ambiguous)
Seal, valve stem: 14791-319-005
Images below.

The 1300 Coupe shop manual cites the stem and guide diameters as:
Inlet: 6.975 mm
Exhaust: 6.945 mm
Valve guide: 7.0 mm (limit 7.03mm)

The 1300 Coupe parts list on pages E51 and E52 has the following parts numbers.
Cap, valve: 12217-590-303
Seal, valve stem: 12210-590-000

There's an o-ring seal mid way on the valve guide but the guide has to be removed, not on the immediate agenda.

Richard

 12 
 on: March 08, 2020, 07:21:13 PM 
Started by RobertP - Last post by RobertP
Page 180 of the workshop manual describes how to remove the cooling fan using the special tool, it also says that if this tool is unavailable then it can be done by inserting the bolt loosely hitting it with a hammer and pulling on the fan at the same time. Well all I can say to that method is 'Good Luck'.  The fan is jammed on tight and requires plenty of effort. After doing a bit of research I found out that the required thread (30mm x1.5) was used for some hydraulic fittings so was able to obtain blocking plug with that thread from a supplier (Pirtek), drilled a hole in the centre and using a long 12mm bolt and nut made a suitable tool. It works the same as a bicycle crank remover but on a slightly larger scale but it requires a lot of effort and, be warned, because the shaft is tapered it releases suddenly with a loud bang.   

 13 
 on: February 25, 2020, 03:01:46 PM 
Started by RichardH - Last post by RichardH
Yeah, it's seems sufficient but not comprehensive.

I have yet to do any significant work on my 1300 '7'. I rebuilt a Peugeot 403 (except gerabox) in the '70s from their manual - very, very comprehensive. Later, I camper-converted a Morris LD5 (like old Mr Whippy vans - bad choice): That manual had chapters on metalwork techniques such as panel shrinking (with asbestos pulp...!).

I'll post in the Oil Cooler topic when I have pics/info on mine. I note the cooler is in the 1970 Parts List that Lindsay scanned, and not as an optional part. I have a 1971 Shop Manual as well as the 1970 one I scanned, they're identical.

 14 
 on: February 24, 2020, 11:19:22 PM 
Started by RobertP - Last post by RobertP
I decided to post this comment after downloading and printing a couple of test pages of Richard H's excellent workshop manual. One of the pages I printed was page 102 covering the oil tank and was reminded that nowhere in this manual is the oil cooler mentioned. I presume that is was not included in the early models or may only be fitted to cars in a warmer climate. The oil cooler is a bypass type and only a portion actually flows through the cooler even when the engine is hot. The flow through the cooler is regulated by a thermostat and as these devises are prone to failure I purchased a NOS one from CMS in the Netherlands, I did test the old one in boiling water and it still seemed to work but would you trust a 50year old thermostat in a water cooled engine, I think not. This devise works almost the opposite to a water thermostat in that when the engine is cold the scavenged oil flows freely around the bulb in the thermostat and into the tank, as it heats up it opens and uncovers the port to the cooler at he same time restricting the free flow to the tank thereby sending some of the oil through the cooler, therefore for the cooler to work properly the thermostat must be functional. Removing the thermostat is a bad idea because the hot oil will just flow unrestricted straight into the tank with no means of directing some to the cooler, also blocking off the thermostat housing and sending 100% of the oil through the cooler also may not work because the dinky little cooler probably can't handle the flow.   

 15 
 on: February 24, 2020, 06:51:24 PM 
Started by RichardH - Last post by RobertP
Thanks for the manual, good clear images, no longer have to worry about oily fingerprints on my good original copy. I just wish that it was a little more comprehensive. Previous factory manual for the Scamp was a whopper, you could do a full rebuild of the A360 automatic transmission (185 page chapter) if you felt inclined   

 16 
 on: February 21, 2020, 04:50:29 PM 
Started by Lindsay3485 - Last post by Lindsay3485
After some very hard work by Richard Haller in Sydney, there is now a complete copy of the Shop Manual available on the Technical Support link on the Home page of the website.

Thank you Richard for a job well done.

 17 
 on: February 20, 2020, 05:09:29 PM 
Started by RichardH - Last post by RichardH
Hmm, no downloads and no comments as of February 21, 2020. Does that mean there's no interest? Hard to believe.
Anyway, I've completed this and we're trying to figure out how to upload. The original size works fine.

 18 
 on: February 13, 2020, 03:13:15 AM 
Started by RichardH - Last post by RichardH
I've decided to give scanning and a 'sympathetic restoration' of a good copy of the original Honda 1300 Coupe Shop Manual a go.

I've attached a pdf of 4 pages with the front cover, a near blank "page 2", a text only page and a page with photos. I'll be including the blank pages as in the original so that duplex printing won't muck up pagination. The test pdf is not in actual page order.

The paper size is Japanese B5 (7.2 x 10.1 inches, 182 x 257 mm ~ or so the web tells me) the scans are roughly 300 dpi and 2163 x 3034 pixels. This is close to the ISO size B5, maybe it's really the same, but as most will be printing on A4 I'd like to ask the question of whether I should allow extra margins. My temptation is to leave it original size. I've edited the pages to give near "pure white" background while maintaining the photo clarity.

This will be a sporadic long-term project. In the meantime could a few of you try duplex printing and let me know your thoughs on size and clarity?

Thanks,
Richard

 19 
 on: February 12, 2020, 07:43:26 PM 
Started by RichardH - Last post by RichardH
Test PDF and PNG attachments

 20 
 on: February 12, 2020, 06:31:39 PM 
Started by RichardH - Last post by RichardH
Test Notification by email

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