Recent Posts

I have very little to report , My Honda is sitting all forlorn
in my workshop. I left the brake rust problem too long ,
 now I have an unmovable car. Lots of benefits living on the harbour
edge , but one huge negative is salt .. I buy my WD40 by the dozen.
I will have  BBQ soon and invite a few strong guys, only take a few good men and some muscle to rock it and all will be well.( I hope) .
I am still trying to decide if to do it as a concourse type resto or as per 1971
Bathurst livery..I can get hearsay evidence from reliable people it was the 71 Bathurst car , but can't get enough real evidence. I would regret doing it as a show car and then find it has providence as the ex-Bathurst car.
The Japanese classics are becoming popular in NZ these days , I even understand
3 possibly 4 Honda 1300's have been imported into NZ from Japan or Aussie in the last year or so.
Let's hear what people who are actually doing something ,not just thinking about it like me..
tony

I live about 20 feet from the sea, great except for
salt spray and rusting.
I have a struggle breaking the shoes off after a couple of months,
I put new shoes on a few years ago but did not fix it.
I had considered relining the drums and kevlar pads
, CRC works but the brakes don't , anyone have the same problem??
tony

Fifteen years ago when I acquired my 9s I struggled to
find any informative material on the mechanical aspects of the car,
Thanks to Bill who helped sort a workshop manual and others who found
floats  , then new front tower rubbers , things I was not expecting to source.
or source as simply as I did.
That is all down to the forum.
I have one full resto left in me and frankly my fear of the unknown
means the Honda gets pushed to the back of my workshop,
In part uncertain, if I should dedicate it to classic racing, my personal hobby
or my pet hate Concourse De Elegance .
But thanks to the forum at least my fear of the unknown only plays a small part
these days .
so thanks
tony

Using Mr Tuttle's  suggestion I decided to replace the oil pump chain with a new go-cart chain, the one to get has a '219' pitch and the one I got also has a joining link (some don't). The difference in the amount of slack between the old and new is minimal so maybe the old chain would still have been OK.
I was able to compare piston rings from an old 1974 civic 1500 (EC) engine and found they are an exact fit so it would appear that any of the early 1500,1600 cc EC,EG,ED etc engines (74mm bore) use these rings and they seem to be readily available in std and oversize

Hi Ian,
Thanks, the CB 750 looks similar and as you noted have been fitted. I wonder about the lack of outer steel case, maybe it has little effect.
I'll check further and report back when I've had the head apart and/or redone the seals.

Many years ago i was told cb750 valve stem seals fitted I have a had a valve regrind at a motor cycle repair shop and valve stem seals fitted plus some new and used caps fitted. Motor has been run but car has not on the road yet
 
Ian Tuttle

As most would know there are a few engine components that are different between the 7 and the 9  apart from the obvious induction system, one of those is the camshaft, below is a photo of both a 9 and 7 camshaft. The difference at first glance is that the 9 shaft is slightly thinner and measuring them at a non-machined point the 9 has a diameter of 21mm and the 7 is 25.4mm, the weight of the 9 is 2.67kg and the 7 is 2.81kg, one has to ask why would Honda go to the trouble of using 2 different castings to machine the same item, the weight difference in negligible. One possible, but unlikely, reason is that the 7 could have an optional a/c compressor connected and more strength was needed, the 9 shaft has 'A-1' cast on it and the 7 has 'C-3'. You would also expect the 9 cam to be 'hotter' but my observations and measurement suggest otherwise, the distance from the heel to the nose of the lobe is 38.4mm and is the same on the inlet and exhaust on both shafts, so lift is identical, I was able to reasonably accurately compare(not measure) the lobe separation angle and they are the same. Looking closely at the asymmetric lobes they appear identical on both shafts, not very scientific I admit but if there is subtle differences to the lobes then I can't see it     

These photos show the difference in length between a new and worn cam chain

I've written to six manufacturers. Only Enginepro responded with a potential and ultimately referred me to Nason's in Sydney. A friend with a Nissan FJ20ET engine also checked and found the seal for his is very similar.
I ordered Nason's suggestion and Nissan equivalents. I'm still waiting for some info so this isn't conclusive.

The Nissan seal, as supplied, seems almost ideal except for the additional length. There's also no internal step as in the original. From the spec sheet
Stem OD  7.00
Guide OD 12.00
VSS Height 15.40
VSS Width 14.40

What I don't have is a guide or the ability to check, as my car's 100km away. Can anyone tell me what the height of the guide above head in the 1300 is?

The shorter "unknown application" seal is much shorter as you see, but may be a contender. The difference in seal diameter is interesting, they're all supposed to be for 7 mm stems, so my 1300 sample must be very worn or Honda made them a looser fit, maybe....

One of these may be "ideal" but I will confirm when I'm sure I can recommend one.

Please add your insights and/or guide info!

**Update**
ElringKlinger went to the trouble of searching by size and came up with this (thanks to them!):
Manufacturer: ELRING
Part Number: 112.593
Height [mm]: 12,7
Diameter 2 [mm]: 11,5 (ID)
Diameter 1 [mm]: 7 (Stem Dia,)
Diameter 3 [mm]: 16 (OD)
Material: ACM (Polyacrylate)
For Opel/Vauxhall - it's not steel encased but the measurements are extremely close.

I moulded the internal cavity of the seal and rechecked/redrew the dimensions.

There are significant changes to the cross-section drawing, now 'REVB'. I previously thought there was a retaining recess, but after a more thorough clean and in better light, I see there isn't. The cup part is cylindrical above the lower angled lip to the upper seating step.

Given the improved representation, it may be that a more experienced person can recall a possible alternative which doesn't require machining the valve guide.